Silicone Facts

The "silicone-free" claim has gained momentum solely as a niche marketing tool to suggest such formulations are somehow safer, more healthy, or offer enhanced environmental credentials than otherwise. This misinformation is peddled through blogs and social media networks by product companies or individuals with vested interests, rather than through rigorous scientific premises and facts.

Numerous studies have shown cosmetic-grade silicons are non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic and biologically inert and do not cause eye or skin irritation but, on the contrary, are biodegradable and eco-friendly. Silicones have become one of the most valued ingredient categories used in luxury hair and skin care products. In hair care, they have long been known as the “conditioning workhorses,” capable of repairing signs of damage, filling in cracks in the hair’s surface and preventing new damage from occurring. 

There are so many types of silicones; some are water-soluble and some are not. The silicones used in high-grade haircare products are water-soluble, lightweight, breathable silicones that are easy to wash out of the hair and do not leave buildup.

Many people get confused about the differences between silica, silicon, and silicone. Silicon is the 14th element on the periodic table and the second most abundant element in the earth’s crust, after oxygen. Silicon readily bonds with oxygen and is found in nature in its pure form. You have likely seen silicon as silicon dioxide or silica, better known as quartz, which is the most common component of sand. 

Common Silicones

Common silicones found in most hair and skin care products are cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, cetrimonium chloride, amodimethicone, and trideceth-12. If you are looking to identify silicones on a product label, they generally end in “-cone,” “-conol,” or “-siloxane.”

Positive Effects

The positive effects of silicone in hair care are plenty, starting with the fact that silicone can actually make hair that is dry and damaged look and feel like it’s healthy by filling in the porosity (what looks like frizz and split ends) and driving and locking in conditioner. 

Silicone is a mineral that provides slip and shine, can help smooth and straighten hair, and gives hair a luxurious, conditioned feel. Silicone protects the hair from the elements, keeping it smooth and shiny by ‘waterproofing’ each strand. It also gives hair a slippery-when-wet feel because of its hydrophobic coating, which is coveted in our world of brushing and blow-drying.

Silicones have become critical in many high-end, high-performance skin and hair care formulations, giving them never-before-seen glide, spreadability, and ultra-smooth application and finish for a luxurious, silky, comfortable-skin feel without any sticky residue.

Silicone as a Cosmetic Ingredient

Silicone is a catch-all word for one of the most useful and broadest classes of raw materials used across all sectors of the personal care industry. Since the 1950s, this class of additives has imparted desirable multifunctional effect and represents a key go-to solution based on
performance-price considerations. It is estimated that over 50 percent of all new cosmetic products launched contain at least one silicone.

Is Silicone Derived from Petroleum?

Often formulators and consumers mistakenly believe that silicones are

petrochemicals derived from oil. In fact, silicone science starts with sand, also

known as silica or quartz, composed of two of the most abundant elements on earth: oxygen and silicon.

Are Silicones Natural?

Silicones do not grow on trees, but neither do most ingredients termed “natural” used in a cosmetic formulator's laboratory. Most of them have been highly processed and refined, resulting in a sizeable environmental footprint. Naturals are perceived as safer, but what constitutes “natural”? There are no industry standards or agreed definitions of what constitutes natural within current legislation, only significant debate. Infact “naturals” present their own drawbacks, and commercial position can be highly impacted per harvest. *See 'The Organic Truth' for information.

Are Silicones Harming the Ozone Layer?
Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) are the family of chemicals that some say harm the ozone layer, not silicones. It is led to believe chlorine gas disrupts ozone formation in the Earth’s upper atmosphere, which is where the damaging reactions occur. Silicones do not contain chlorine, which means they cannot contribute to this disruption.

Are Silicones Biodegradable?

Although silicones aren’t biodegradable in the traditional sense, they do degrade in the environment, breaking down into water, silica and/or silicate, and carbon dioxide. The degradation trigger for low molecular weight silicones, used in haircare and skincare products, is sunlight and oxygen. 

Heavier weight silicones, which for the main are not used in the hairdressing industry, aren’t susceptible to degradation by UV, oxidation, or ozone; instead, they seek solid, water-free surfaces, adsorbing preferentially onto the biomass formed in effluent treatment plants. This sludge, as it is known in the water treatment industry, is ultimately incinerated. When deposited over soil, mineral clays catalyze the breakdown of the silicone’s polymer backbone. This can take weeks and months if the soil remains wet, but if the soil dries, it can take only days. Inspection of soils treated with high concentrations of silicone showed a negligible impact on microorganism activity and no harm to plant germination and growth.

Do Silicones Bioaccumulate in Humans or Animals?

Silicones do not bioaccumulate, as they are too large to pass through cell membranes—a key the requirement for bioaccumulation.

Are Silicones Safe?

Extensive research has been conducted by, and on behalf of, the silicone industry to qualify and document the use and properties of this class of raw material within their intended cosmetic application. A body of evidence exists within the public domain reinforcing our assurance that silicones in personal care are safe for the environment and human use.

Is D4 Forbidden in Personal Care Applications?

Cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) is classified in the EU as a reprotoxic substance, category 2, although officially, it can still be used for personal care applications when accompanied by a toxicological evaluation. In practice, the European personal care industry is stepping back from D4, adopting self-imposed impurity limits of a max of 0.1% in end products. While studies indicate D4 is generally non-comedogenic and poses minimal to no skin irritation risk, it has faced scrutiny over potential endocrine-disrupting properties (the ability to block, or interfere with the body's natural hormones, leading to adverse health effects).

Do Silicones Suffocate the Skin or Hair?

Most silicones do not allow liquid water to penetrate but are breathable, allowing oxygen, nitrogen, and water vapors to transport easily through them into or out of the skin or hair. Some silicones are cited to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which can cause skin and hair dryness and dehydration.

Do Silicones Clog Pores, Skin, or Scalp and Cause Breakouts?

Silicones are highly resistant to oxidation, resulting in non-comedogenic properties. They do not go rancid, and, as they are non-irritant, they are non-acnegenic. They are also hostile to bacterial or other microbial growth. However, silicones may increase the penetration of some ingredients, such as common irritants like fragrance or lipid-rich plant oils that are known pore-cloggers and can be culprits behind breakouts and blackheads.

Do Silicones Cause Irritation?

Silicones don’t irritate the skin. They actually lower or eliminate irritation because they enhance the spreading and leveling of ingredients during application. This in-turn prevents pocketing and minimizes percentages of potentially irritating forms of cosmetic and drug ingredients. These include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), salicylic acid, strong emulsifiers and surfactants, benzoyl peroxide, and organic sunscreens.

Are Silicones Allergens?

Silicones are too large to enter the skin and react with the immune system, so they can’t trigger an allergic reaction. In fact, they’re so biologically inert when in contact with the skin that silicones are now replacing latex, a common allergen in adhesives, gloves, and a wide array of other items. Silicones are also used on open wounds because they shorten healing time and do not promote bacterial growth.

Do Silicones Prevent Moisture from Entering/Exiting Hair?

Silicones are impermeable to water and bacteria, but they are permeable to water vapor and air. This property allows the hair to "breathe."

Do Silicones Buildup on Hair and Difficult to Remove?

Silicone deposition levels and the impact on hair volume depend upon the product and quantity used. In any event, where silicone deposits are suspected, they can be easily removed after one application of a clarifying shampoo.

Summary:

Silicones are often one of the main ingredients in “oil-free” products such as anti-acne treatments, sensitive hypoallergenic skin lines, scar treatments, healthcare, and medical devices, therefore applied to the skin at its most sensitive. The reason? Silicones are chemically inert and never irritate or cause an allergic reaction on the skin. They are not occlusive, so they permit the skin to breathe and they do not close pores. This breathable character
protects skin from urban, external aggressions and permits skin to regenerate.

Tip on Answering a Customers Concern about Silicones:

"Great question. Yes, some of our products do contain breathable silicones, which are derived from natural sand. They are vegan-friendly, gluten-free, lightweight, and non-greasy. They help soften, detangle, protect the hair from heat, reduce frizz, provide shine, and much more! They are effective at very low concentrations and are easily removed from the hair by shampooing."